Last Updated on by Angie
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Federal Galley follows in its sister restaurant's (Smallman Galley, now closed) footsteps in that it is a restaurant incubator that features four chefs in a food hall format.
Each chef receives a small stall in which to prepare their meals and has a contract for a variable length of time that will allow the galley to rotate new chefs in and out over the years. If you were a fan of Smallman Galley in the Strip District, then this one is for you.
Much like our review for its sister restaurant, we visited Federal Galley no fewer than five times after opening and in this review will be breaking down our meals from each chef individually!
If the name sounds familiar, you're right – Chef Stephen Eldridge started the Provision PGH concept at Smallman Galley when he had a stall there a few years back. We're happy to see him return with his menu of creative American cuisine that includes the likes of burgers, sandwiches, and small plates.
On our visit we tried a special, the chicken liver mousse. A huge mound of creamy, rich mousse was served with several slices of buttery grilled bread. A dollop of whole grain mustard and bread and butter pickles helped balance the richness and fattiness of the mousse. This dish was certainly decadent but delicious!
We've had the burger before at Smallman Galley (which was delicious), so we thought we'd branch out and try the Korean fried chicken sandwich. The fried chicken was covered in a sweet barbecue sauce and topped with kimchi, pickles, and remoulade. The fried chicken had soaked up a lot of the sauce and could have been a litter crispier, but the barbecue sauce was so delicious that we didn't really mind. We would have loved a little more spiciness to balance the overall sweet and creamy flavors, but we still really enjoyed the sandwich.
We also had to get an order of fries – these things are legendary. They're triple-fried, addicting, and some of the crispiest you'll ever have anywhere.
Shaka opened at Federal Galley in August 2019 with the aim of providing Hawaiian fusion dishes. The starting menu consisted of poke and rice bowls, pho, plus snack and brunch options.
As a big poke fan I naturally gravitated to the truffle tuna poke- a decently sized bowl featuring rice, about eight or nine large hunks of tuna, avocado, roe, seaweed salad, pickled ginger, and more. While the flavors worked quite well together for the number of ingredients, I would've liked a bit more of the truffle lemon sauce to bring it all together as it felt a bit lacking.
Beyond the bowl, I picked up a two-piece order of the Hawaiian Egg Rolls- deep-fried egg rolls stuffed full of pulled pork, onions, and pineapple. This was a wonderful side and the copious amount of pulled pork helped make up for the $6 price tag.
I'll be looking forward to ordering from this one soon- especially to try their Hawaiian Bibimbap and other rice bowls!
Sultry opened at Smallman Galley in mid-2019 and focuses on an array of Eastern European dishes including schnitzel, pierogies, chicken paprikash, and more.
What we really like about this one is how well executed the dishes are with complex and often hearty flavor profiles. The beef shortrib in the pierogies offers a nice compliment to the potato-filled classics, and the dumplings that accompanied the chicken paprikash have a pillowy texture you really need to try to understand.
Our only one downside for this particular stall is that the price is on the higher end, but that being said for perfectly executed Eastern European fare we can get behind that!
Note: Sultry was formerly at Smallman Galley and moved to Federal Galley in June 2020 when Smallman Galley closed.
Guapo opened at Federal Galley in mid-2019 with a focus on New Mexican style dishes inspired by the chef's former home- meaning this concept has heavy use of stewed or braised meats and chilis to name a few.
The menu here offers an array of dishes like made-to-order guac, loaded nachos, and the burro- a monstrous burrito filled with your choice of meat, paitas fritas (fried potatoes), and covered with red or green chile. Naturally, I had to order the burro.
I opted for a smothered version of the burro with carne adovada (pork cooked with New Mexican chilies and spices) and covered with their X-MAS sauce (red and green chile split 50/50) to try a bit of it all. For a burrito, the $15 price tag was a bit steep, but the order was large enough for two meals leftover which I can always appreciate even if the size is the definition of excessive. (During my first visit, two separate people came by and their jaws dropped when they saw how big it was. I think this will be a common occurrence.)
As the two main ingredients of this gigantic burrito are pork and potatoes, you can imagine that a burrito the size of your head is loaded up with the ingredients, and it most certainly was. In fact, my burro was quite heavy in the meat such that when it was all broken down it almost felt like a carne adovada dish on its own with the remaining tortilla, potatoes, chile, and sour cream as a side. Naturally, this lets the delicious flavors of the meat shine through to highlight the chef's skill with the meats.
Will I get the gigantic burrito again? Probably not unless going with a big group. But I am looking forward to sampling more of the chef's meats all the same. Just hopefully in a bit small of an entree next time around!
Go for a Drink at the Bar at Federal Galley
In addition to the four chefs at Federal Galley, the restaurant is home to a standalone bar that features 30 draft beers (a majority from Pennsylvania), craft cocktails, a rotating country-based cocktail menu, and wine on draft.
The bar is in a unique space that was previously a bank vault that was opened up to allow patrons to order drinks on both sides. This is a novel feature you don't see at too many restaurants and is a really beautiful design.
After opening week kinks the restaurant added set lines on either side of the bar for patrons to get drinks in an orderly fashion (needed during their 4:30 to 6:30 happy hour that is 50% off everything), so be sure to look through the bar to judge the line on the other side- it very much could be a faster option!
As far as the cocktails are concerned, we sampled all of the ones from their special menu which at the time of opening featured ingredients from the Philippines. If you want mixers such as ube (purple yam), lychee, pandan, or jackfruit these ones are must-tries.
Our personal favorite from the first batch was the Luya, featuring Maggie's Farm white rum, coconut rum, Aperol, ginger, lychee, and lime as it had a nice balance of flavors without being too sweet like some of the others. We really could drink this one all the time!
Overall, aside from the opening kinks of getting drinks in a relatively fast period of time, Federal Galley has a fine bar that lives up to the standard set by their sister restaurant Smallman Galley- just the way we like it.
The Incubators are Taking Over
Up until this point we've resisted the urge to compare any of the chefs to those at the now-closed Smallman Galley.
It isn't a stretch for us to say that Smallman Galley was one of the best restaurants in Pittsburgh. In fact, we often considered making it our #1 restaurant after the second class of chefs maintained the high quality we loved about the first class.
The concept of the incubator restaurant is unique, thrilling, and something we're proud to have originated in Pittsburgh. (Our stack of receipts from our many visits for this review reflects this sentiment.)
Federal Galley takes this concept, runs with it, and knocks it out of the park with a bigger and more inviting space in the North Side that we look forward to frequenting many times in the future.
Federal Galley is located at 200 Children's Way in the North Side, within the Nova Place building on the west side of Commons Square. There are a few metered parking spots on Children's Way and significantly more along the Commons Square that we park in when visiting.