Vinoteka by Apteka Review – Wine and Casual Vegan Dining

A Wine Forward Menu at Vinoteka

Apteka's regular menu is typically available just three days a week from Friday through Sunday, so having another day to enjoy their delicious Eastern European vegan food is quite exciting. Another great perk of Vinoteka is that lines tend to be shorter and the vibe tends to be quieter, meaning you can linger a little longer over another glass of wine or small plate.

The food menu for Vinoteka changes every week, but typically features around six or so small plates. On our visit, it included dishes like pickled mushrooms, salads, soup, sandwiches, pierogies, and dessert. The wine list is expanded and typically offers over a dozen wines by the glass from central and Eastern Europe. Half pours are available, too, so you really can turn your visit into a wine tasting of sorts and try a lot of different options.

We brought along some friends, a tactic we always recommend for Apteka, so that we could try pretty much everything on the menu and share. Although the menu is pared down, that definitely doesn't mean it's simple. In every single dish you'll still find complex flavor combinations and textures, and mind-bending umami.

On our maiden voyage to Vinoteka we started with pickled mushrooms which were rich and delicious with a zippy touch of spice. The salad was perfect for spring with local lettuces tossed with an herbaceous dressing, seeds for crunch, and a pumpkin seed sauce on the bottom of the plate.

We learned this sauce was a multi-day project that involved fermentation with a yogurt culture – the result was a completely vegan cheese-like paste almost reminiscent of ricotta. Its spring-like vibe complemented the freshness of the salad perfectly.

We also tried a fantastic soup made with Slovak giant beans, potatoes, smoked onion, paprika, and marjoram. The smokiness of the onions and rich texture of the beans and potatoes was comforting and filling. We mopped up every last drop with the earthy and flavorful house made light rye bread.

Of course, we couldn't pass up the pierogi, which are normally available in some format on the Apteka menu but also made an appearance on the Vinoteka menu during our visit. Filled with cabbage, potato, and onion, they were tender and pure comfort food. They came topped with scallions, sunflower oil, and a czarna salsa which we were enthralled with.

This little black dollop of sauce belied the complexity behind it as it was made from smoked veggie scraps and black garlic, yet another example of how layers of flavor are created in the kitchen here.

But our hands down favorite of the night was the carrot sandwich. Starting with a beautiful house-made flaxseed and onion bun, this one was overflowing with smoked and brined carrots, sauerkraut, a smoky tomato mayo, and pickles.

The bun was light and fluffy but with enough structure to soak up all the sauciness inside. The smoky carrots had a rich, almost meaty flavor that was balanced by the tanginess of the sauerkraut and pickles, and the tomato mayo tied it all together with a touch of creaminess.

We absolutely loved this sandwich, and the complexities in it reminded us of some of the great flavor combinations we've had at Crapteka, the vegan burger takeover that Apteka tends to run for about three weeks from mid-January to early-February.

We ended the night with dessert, a parfait layered with rye cake, oat cream, apricot jam, wildflower syrup, and a flax meringue. We're not vegan and don't tend to eat vegan desserts, but we were surprised at the creamy flavors and textures coaxed from this dish. The cake was light and moist, and we particularly liked the roasted apricot jam and floral syrup.

Of course, we tried ample wine throughout the evening. We love the focus on wines from lesser known regions in countries like Slovenia, Czech Republic, and Slovakia. Each wine is carefully selected to pair with the vegetable focused cuisine – some of our favorites on this visit were an Austrian Zweigelt rose and a floral orange blend from Pfalz.

We love that Vinoteka is a little more chill, which lends itself to chatting with the knowledgeable staff about your favorite wine or dish and maybe ordering another round or two. If you love Apteka but are looking for a more casual weeknight vibe, don't sleep on Vinoteka.

Apteka is located at 4606 Penn Avenue. Vinoteka is a special, Thursday night only menu.