One by Spork Review – A Prix Fixe Delight in Pittsburgh

Published by Angie. Last Updated on January 29, 2025.

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One by Spork is a bold new restaurant concept in the former Spork space at the border between Garfield, Friendship, and Bloomfield. The dining experience consists of a roughly 10-course tasting menu with drink pairings (and many additional welcome bites) where diners are seated around a circular chef's counter.

We visited One by Spork shortly after opening and were intrigued by the inventive techniques and ingredients being used in both the food and drinks here. While some of the courses were more cohesive than others, we think One by Spork is ambitious and exciting, and hope that it kindles more creativity in the Pittsburgh restaurant scene.

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One by Spork is Not Just a Meal, But an Experience

Inside One by Spork

One by Spork is in the same space as Spork, but the interior looks vastly different. Upon entering, we were immediately drawn to the massive chandelier- the centerpiece of the 16-seat tasting counter. We also couldn't help but notice all of the high-end kitchen gadgets that flanked the room, including the likes of a freeze dryer, rotary evaporator, a koji incubator, dehydrator, and many, many more.

Our experience began in the lounge seating area that runs the length of the space by the windows. As there is only one dinner seating per night, diners settle in here with a few snacks while waiting for everyone to arrive before being seated at the tasting counter.

In the lounge area, our welcome bites included an activated charcoal tart with smoked bass and a truffle dashi (our favorite welcome bite!); a mini taco bite with house-made masa and smoked turkey; a creamy duxelle and prosciutto tart with pickled onion; and a takoyaki-inspired fried dough ball with kewpie mayo and okonomi sauce, topped with squab.

The bites were paired with a welcome mocktail that was like a carbonated apple cider with lots of warming spices (everyone got this mocktail even if you went for the alcohol-forward pairing).

Cauliflower Tuile

We were soon escorted group by group over to the tasting counter, where we had one last starter bite, a crispy tuile filled with smoked cauliflower. We were welcomed and the meal was explained to us, and we each chose whether we wanted the alcoholic or non-alcoholic drink pairings for the meal. Note that the cost of the drink pairings is already included in the meal price, and the cost is the same for each. Naturally, we opted for the alcoholic pairings, which included a wide range of craft cocktails, wines, and sake on our visit.

At the beginning of each food course, the chef who created the specific dish explained each component of the bite to us in great detail. Being food nerds and ambitious home cooks, we really appreciated the details and made many mental notes on the techniques used. The wines, sakes, and cocktails were also described to us by the bar staff, also in great detail, which we truly loved. The non-alcoholic drink pairings were given equal thought, care, and explanation, which is rather unique among Pittsburgh restaurants (so if you're going non-alcoholic, don't worry- they've got you here).

Lamb Tartare and Wine at One by Spork

Soon we began the first of the seven main courses- local lamb tartare from Elysian Fields with house-made rye crackers, capers, and onions; the drink pairing was an Austrian rose sparkling that was creamy and delicious. We loved the richness of the lamb so much; this was easily one of our favorite courses.

Next up was a koji tempura sweetbread with dijon sauce, horseradish cream, pickled piopino mushrooms, and a beet tuile. The sweetbreads themselves were rich and meaty, but we thought the bready coating on them was an odd contrast. The drink pairing was a house-made gin-based cocktail with tomato, honey, koji orgeat, yuzu, and tea. Although there was a lot going on in the cocktail, the flavors were overall light, perfectly integrated, and refreshing against the richness of the food.

Miso Halibut and Pasta

A miso halibut, another favorite of the evening, was next. We got to watch Chef Christian in action at the center table while he torched the fish- throughout the meal various parts of the dish would come together at this center table, which was great fun to watch.

We loved the tender meatiness of the halibut and the sweet/savory miso on top. It was served with a Hoppin' John ravioli which was a little confusing as it wasn't fully enclosed and rice and beans spilled out from it onto the plate. A filling with a more cohesive texture would have probably worked better with this dish. A delightful Santa Barbara Chardonnay/Roussane blend was a nice accompaniment for this one.

Freeze Dried Ramen

The showstopper course was next, where individual portions of ramen were prepared in front of each person's seat using individual burners and glass vessels for ultimate showmanship.

Chef Christian explained that the rye ramen noodles were house-made and freeze-dried in-house (impressive!) and that all the seafood components were freeze-dried as well. The chefs brought the pork and chicken stock to boil and added the dashi, dried scallops, crab, and ramen before serving in little bowls alongside furikake. The seafood flavor that permeated the dish was delightful, and the noodles were tender and springy, with a touch of earthiness from the rye. A rich, earthy Ginjo sake was a satisfying pairing for this dish and really took us back to Japan in all the best ways possible.

New York Sour Riff

The next course was perhaps our overall favorite in terms of execution in both the food and drink and truly showcased the level that One by Spork is aspiring to achieve.

Pork Belly and Fondant Potatoes

It started with our favorite cocktail of the evening (and perhaps one of the best drinks we've ever had in Pittsburgh)- a play on a New York sour, but taken up several notches, naturally.

With Cognac; apple brandy; a distillate of persimmon, pear, and apple; and a red wine meringue on top, this was a potent drink with complexity and balance. We loved the nuanced fruit flavors and the richness of the meringue on top. The drink was paired with a pork belly bite with a black bean miso glaze, an ultra-crispy rolled fondant potato, a cherry gastrique, and a smoky tomato sauce. The meat was cooked to perfection and the accompanying sauces balanced the fattiness of the meat. Perfect is an understatement!

Elk Pasta and Red Wine at One by Spork

The next course was visually impressive with a single stuffed pasta pocket filled with local elk presented on a rich tomato sauce. The sauce had such intense umami that it was addicting, and the elk was so tender. Unfortunately the pasta we had was a little undercooked, and the whole pocket wasn't quite as hot as we would've liked when served. An Italian Aglianico was a perfect accompaniment for this dish, with its tomato notes amplified with each bite of the sauce. Delicious house-made rye bread was served with this course, along with house-made koji-cultured butter with mushroom garum.

Wagyu

The final savory course was an Australian A5 wagyu served with an au poivre sauce and a spinach gorgonzola souffle on the side. The steak was melt-in-your-mouth, and the souffle was served with a spoon dolloped with caviar- an extremely luxurious way to end the meal. A delightful riff on an Old Fashioned accompanied the steak with Japanese whiskeys, shio koji, a reduction of a cricket and mushroom garum, and orange peel. The drink was also infused with jasmine rice throughout the course of our meal for extra richness and body.

Gingersnap Cookie with Maple Amazake

At this point, we were quite full and happy to be headed toward the dessert courses. The first one was served at the counter- a gingersnap cookie topped with maple amazake ice cream and a swoosh of apple butter on the plate. This one hit all the right spice notes, and the ice cream was especially delicious. Yet another mind-bending cocktail was paired with this one, a sort of milk punch with yuzu, Meletti amaro, and coffee for a pick-me-up before heading out.

Dessert in the Lounge

Several final dessert bites were served in the lounge- a sticky toffee pudding, a house-made hot chocolate complete with house-made marshmallows, and a glass of Moscato d'Asti. The hot chocolate was also one of those drinks that was on its own level- the restaurant makes their own chocolate from cacao beans, and there was a touch of amaro in the drink to balance the sweetness. A lovely way to finish on a snowy winter night!

While we enjoyed our experience at One by Spork when it is all said and done, there are some important details to keep in mind for those looking to visit.

• Traveling to Pittsburgh soon? Find a flight deal.
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• Don't overlook picking up a rental car or day tours as well!

A Few Important Details to Consider Before Booking

Boiling the Ramen

There are several logistics to keep in mind for a meal here.

First, yes, this is one of the most expensive meals you can have in Pittsburgh, which at the time of opening was $275 per person. This price includes drink pairings but not tax and tip, so our final bill was about $675 (including the deposit we put down when we booked).

To us, the price point seems about right but a little high (maybe about $50 more all-in than we would ideally have liked) considering the amount of food and drinks that you get- especially compared with tasting menus we've had in other cities across the country and world. This raises the inevitable question of whether or not Pittsburgh is ready to support such a price. While we hope the answer is yes, because every great food city should have stellar prix fixe options within the dining scene, we can see this being sticker shock to many- and rightfully so, too.

One downside here is that you must choose a drink pairing for the meal, which obviously adds to the inherent cost. If, for example, you could simply pay $150 for the food-tasting menu without drinks (possibly with the option to add on wine by the glass, a single cocktail from the line-up, or a bottle of wine), that would likely be a much more attractive value proposition to some. The restaurant was new at the time of our visit, just about three weeks old, and perhaps these types of options will be considered in the future. 

It is also important to note that the meal can take well over 2 1/2 hours, if not longer. We were lucky in that our group was smaller than the max of 16 (likely due to how poor the weather was that night), and our final dessert was served at roughly the 2 1/2 hour mark. That said, we've heard from others who have dined here where the meal lasted far longer. So plan for it being a night here!

Next, be sure to check their ability to accommodate food allergies and intolerances if you have any restrictions. There are some allergies that the restaurant can accommodate and some they cannot. If you have an allergy, be sure to contact the restaurant more than a week ahead of time to ensure they can accommodate you when preparing the meal (their booking page also lists what they can and cannot accommodate to check out in advance). I have a tree nut allergy which we told them about ahead of time, and they were able to modify several courses and drinks for me without issue, which I greatly appreciated.

Welcome Bite

Our experience at One by Spork left us with a lot to unpack as well.

First and foremost, we tried several delicious flavors and ingredients that we have never had before, which excited us. We also loved that we got to interact with the chefs and ask them questions about certain components and ideas. If you're into food to the level we are, this is an element you just don't get at very many places when dining out.

However, for a few of the courses, there were also elements that weren't quite cohesive in their execution, as mentioned above. But, taken all together, our thoughts are that there is nowhere else in Pittsburgh using these kinds of techniques and ingredients and that is incredibly exciting.

We can only hope that the effort and creativity here sparks momentum across the city and reinvigorates another wave of revival in the food and beverage scene here, particularly in the use of unique ingredients like koji, miso, and more. These are ready for their spotlight outside of Japanese cooking, and we are excited that One by Spork is leading the charge here.

But, to end this one, we simply have to answer the inevitable question we received after visiting- would we dine here again? The answer is an absolute yes, and we are particularly excited for the summer when fresh produce from their garden can make its way onto the menu. Our reservation deposit is ready to go right now.

One by Spork is located at 5430 Penn Avenue at the boundary between Bloomfield, Garfield, and Friendship neighborhoods.

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2 thoughts on “One by Spork Review – A Prix Fixe Delight in Pittsburgh”

  1. I think that if you are charging $275/person you should probably be able to pay all employees a living wage and include tip in that price. That is a lot of money.

    Reply
    • I can’t say I know what the payment situation is like there to say for sure. $275/person alone in a vacuum doesn’t tell you much considering the cost of food, alcohol, the amount you get, etc. I do like dining prix fixe overseas though where you don’t have to add tax and tip on after, though.

      Reply

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